Yom Kippur, The Day of Awe, and the Attack of the Shil-Shul
After crawling and slithering through the Bar Kochba caves and learning all about yet another failed rebellion, having a pool party with some Israeli teens, and celebrating our one month anniversary of arriving in the country earlier this week, the time came for the biggest holiday in the Jewish calendar--Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement.
This day is more important than any other holiday in the Jewish year, and I consider myself more than privileged to be able to observe it in Israel. In my last entry, I mentioned the tradition of saying on Yom Kippur: "Next year in Jerusalem," as a way of keeping the hope of a return to Zion alive. This year, I finally made my way to Jerusalem to say these magic words.
Our quarters for the weekend were located in the Beit Shmuel hostel on the Hebrew Union College campus just outside the walls of the Old City, and despite the term "hostel", where amazingly comfy and nice. We arrived and got settled into HUC Sunday afternoon, just in time to grab a last bite to eat before the sun set and the tradition of fasting began. That night, we attended services in the main hall of the campus that serves as their synagogue, and is known widely as one of the most beautiful places to pray in the entire world. The building is a large pyramid, one half of the interior composed of concrete and copper arches, while the other half is entirely made of glass, looking out on the Citadel and the Temple Mount. I mention this mainly because it struck me halfway through services that no one was observing the age-old tradition of turning to the East to pray--only to realize we were already facing the holiest of holy places, the Temple Mount.
After a very beautiful service, not much different than those I experience back home in Alabama (although I must say that Cantor Roskin's Kol Nidre beats the head Cantor of HUC's any day), we were given the chance to roam the streets of the Old City and mingle with the locals. On this night of the year, everyone--secular or religious--goes out in the streets to walk around and meet people. It's one big social gathering, and is made even better by the kids on bikes and rollerblades all over the place. Something people must understand about Israel: on Yom Kippur, the entire country shuts down. All but 3 foreign TV stations are blank, the radio is silent, 70% of the population fasts, 98% go to services, and there isn't a car to be seen in the streets. This simple showcase of modern-day observance made more of an impression on me than anything else, in the common bond the Israelis share with each other, and with all other Jews.
The next morning, Tefillah (services) were optional, and I chose, after much debate, to stay back and do some self-reflection and introspection rather than sit in services and be bored, having a potentially meaningless time. This decision, radically different from the past few years I've observed Yom Kippur, turned out to be one of the best I've made concerning my observance of Judaism. The things I was able to find out about myself and about my place in the spectrum of Judaism and Jewish identities were far more than I (in my opinion) would have gained from sitting in Tefillah. And for those that may be asking, No, I didn't just stay back to catch up on sleep...although that was a nice perk.
Later that day, after a rather insightful (but confusing) Torah study with the head rabbi of HUC concerning one small word, Uv'chayen. This word, meaning "Well" or "Also", comes to be another name for G-d when studied, and further reflects three different layers of G-d's relationship to us--the personal level, the level of the people of Israel, and the universal level as Lord G-d, King of the Universe. Then came the final trial of my Day of Atonement: sitting through another three-hour service with weak body and tired mind. Somehow, I made it, and managed to get a spot holding one of the candles for Havdalah, which is saying goodbye to the holiday spirit.
There were three of us elected to hold candles, and we stood on the altar in front of the entire synagogue holding our flames high--then, the lights were turned off. The setting of the crowd went from sullen and not-so-warm to a group of Jews sharing in the delight of their faith, praying and being happy to be together. In a Havdalah song, there is a line:
"The twisted candle brightens our hearts, as together we watch the Sabbath depart.."
This line expressed my feelings exactly as I stood before the congregation, seeing the flames reflected in my fingernails and keeping just a little of the brightness, just a bit of warmth for myself until next Shabbat, and maybe even a bit for next Yom Kippur to remember that moment when I could say "Next year in Jerusalem."
------------------------------------------------------------------
Finally, services let out, and we streamed into the streets, heading straight for Emek Refaim St. For those of you taking notes, you may recall this street was where I had my first real meeting with falafel and shwarma. This night, however, we decided to break our Yom Kippur fast at Burgers Bar.
With a 300-gram hamburger.
Oh, yes.
And the Lord said: It was good.
With two-thirds of a pound of meat in my stomach, a nice Aroma coffee drink in my hand, we boarded the bus again and headed home to Tzuba, just in time to get to sleep and wake up again to resume our normal schedule...that is, if you can call my schedule anything like normal.
Unfortunately, no one realized how big of an effect the fasting, then eating (okay, gorging), then not getting enough sleep and trying to go to classes still dehydrated and hungry would have on us teenagers.
Enter shil-shul. I won't even begin to explain this term, but garuanteed anyone who knows modern Hebrew knows the meaning. Thank you Tums and Pepto for sticking with me when no one else would.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Anyway, that just about sums up everything for now. Tomorrow we are headed North to study the origins of Oral Law and further look at the effects Christianity had on the area known as Palestine after the take-over by the Roman Empire (which, by the way, was neither Holy nor Roman). After that, one more day of class, then we pack up our rooms and move out yet again for Sukkot, the major festival holiday of the year. I'll be staying off the kibbutz with family during Sukkot, and soon after that, we'll all be meeting back up and taking the bus up to the Northern tip of the country for Yam L'Yam--the Sea to Sea trip. This 5-day hike, bike, and camel ride will take us from the Kineret (Sea of Galilee) all the way across to the Mediterranean Sea.
I'll be sure to get in another update before I leave for Yam L'Yam, and with no further comments, questions, or concerns, I'll leave my e-mail and mailing address so everyone can send me love.
Much love,
Aron
Aron Altmark
NFTY-EIE High School
Kibbutz Tzuba
90870 D.N. Harei Yehuda
ISRAEL
Be sure to mark all letters with "AIRMAIL", otherwise they end up on some fishing boat in the Atlantic. If e-mail is more your thing, my e-mail address is aronaltmark@aol.com.
This day is more important than any other holiday in the Jewish year, and I consider myself more than privileged to be able to observe it in Israel. In my last entry, I mentioned the tradition of saying on Yom Kippur: "Next year in Jerusalem," as a way of keeping the hope of a return to Zion alive. This year, I finally made my way to Jerusalem to say these magic words.
Our quarters for the weekend were located in the Beit Shmuel hostel on the Hebrew Union College campus just outside the walls of the Old City, and despite the term "hostel", where amazingly comfy and nice. We arrived and got settled into HUC Sunday afternoon, just in time to grab a last bite to eat before the sun set and the tradition of fasting began. That night, we attended services in the main hall of the campus that serves as their synagogue, and is known widely as one of the most beautiful places to pray in the entire world. The building is a large pyramid, one half of the interior composed of concrete and copper arches, while the other half is entirely made of glass, looking out on the Citadel and the Temple Mount. I mention this mainly because it struck me halfway through services that no one was observing the age-old tradition of turning to the East to pray--only to realize we were already facing the holiest of holy places, the Temple Mount.
After a very beautiful service, not much different than those I experience back home in Alabama (although I must say that Cantor Roskin's Kol Nidre beats the head Cantor of HUC's any day), we were given the chance to roam the streets of the Old City and mingle with the locals. On this night of the year, everyone--secular or religious--goes out in the streets to walk around and meet people. It's one big social gathering, and is made even better by the kids on bikes and rollerblades all over the place. Something people must understand about Israel: on Yom Kippur, the entire country shuts down. All but 3 foreign TV stations are blank, the radio is silent, 70% of the population fasts, 98% go to services, and there isn't a car to be seen in the streets. This simple showcase of modern-day observance made more of an impression on me than anything else, in the common bond the Israelis share with each other, and with all other Jews.
The next morning, Tefillah (services) were optional, and I chose, after much debate, to stay back and do some self-reflection and introspection rather than sit in services and be bored, having a potentially meaningless time. This decision, radically different from the past few years I've observed Yom Kippur, turned out to be one of the best I've made concerning my observance of Judaism. The things I was able to find out about myself and about my place in the spectrum of Judaism and Jewish identities were far more than I (in my opinion) would have gained from sitting in Tefillah. And for those that may be asking, No, I didn't just stay back to catch up on sleep...although that was a nice perk.
Later that day, after a rather insightful (but confusing) Torah study with the head rabbi of HUC concerning one small word, Uv'chayen. This word, meaning "Well" or "Also", comes to be another name for G-d when studied, and further reflects three different layers of G-d's relationship to us--the personal level, the level of the people of Israel, and the universal level as Lord G-d, King of the Universe. Then came the final trial of my Day of Atonement: sitting through another three-hour service with weak body and tired mind. Somehow, I made it, and managed to get a spot holding one of the candles for Havdalah, which is saying goodbye to the holiday spirit.
There were three of us elected to hold candles, and we stood on the altar in front of the entire synagogue holding our flames high--then, the lights were turned off. The setting of the crowd went from sullen and not-so-warm to a group of Jews sharing in the delight of their faith, praying and being happy to be together. In a Havdalah song, there is a line:
"The twisted candle brightens our hearts, as together we watch the Sabbath depart.."
This line expressed my feelings exactly as I stood before the congregation, seeing the flames reflected in my fingernails and keeping just a little of the brightness, just a bit of warmth for myself until next Shabbat, and maybe even a bit for next Yom Kippur to remember that moment when I could say "Next year in Jerusalem."
------------------------------------------------------------------
Finally, services let out, and we streamed into the streets, heading straight for Emek Refaim St. For those of you taking notes, you may recall this street was where I had my first real meeting with falafel and shwarma. This night, however, we decided to break our Yom Kippur fast at Burgers Bar.
With a 300-gram hamburger.
Oh, yes.
And the Lord said: It was good.
With two-thirds of a pound of meat in my stomach, a nice Aroma coffee drink in my hand, we boarded the bus again and headed home to Tzuba, just in time to get to sleep and wake up again to resume our normal schedule...that is, if you can call my schedule anything like normal.
Unfortunately, no one realized how big of an effect the fasting, then eating (okay, gorging), then not getting enough sleep and trying to go to classes still dehydrated and hungry would have on us teenagers.
Enter shil-shul. I won't even begin to explain this term, but garuanteed anyone who knows modern Hebrew knows the meaning. Thank you Tums and Pepto for sticking with me when no one else would.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Anyway, that just about sums up everything for now. Tomorrow we are headed North to study the origins of Oral Law and further look at the effects Christianity had on the area known as Palestine after the take-over by the Roman Empire (which, by the way, was neither Holy nor Roman). After that, one more day of class, then we pack up our rooms and move out yet again for Sukkot, the major festival holiday of the year. I'll be staying off the kibbutz with family during Sukkot, and soon after that, we'll all be meeting back up and taking the bus up to the Northern tip of the country for Yam L'Yam--the Sea to Sea trip. This 5-day hike, bike, and camel ride will take us from the Kineret (Sea of Galilee) all the way across to the Mediterranean Sea.
I'll be sure to get in another update before I leave for Yam L'Yam, and with no further comments, questions, or concerns, I'll leave my e-mail and mailing address so everyone can send me love.
Much love,
Aron
Aron Altmark
NFTY-EIE High School
Kibbutz Tzuba
90870 D.N. Harei Yehuda
ISRAEL
Be sure to mark all letters with "AIRMAIL", otherwise they end up on some fishing boat in the Atlantic. If e-mail is more your thing, my e-mail address is aronaltmark@aol.com.
posted by aron at 4:10 PM
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