Tuesday, September 12, 2006

Sataf, Har Adar, & More!

I have now been in Israel for over two weeks, and I must say that I'm still in shock.

Friday morning, we got up early to go do a mitzvah project in which we travelled to a farmer's field and picked onions for a few hours. I know, it doesn't sound like much of a good deed, but in fact we were picking onions to feed Israel's poor population. This farmer pays over $1.1 million per year out of his own pocket, getting nothing in return, in order to grow food for the percentage of people under the "bread line." The experience of working the land and doing as our ancestors did in Israel so many generations back was very satisfying, as well as knowing that in two hours we picked over 700 kilos (1500lbs) of onions that will go to those who need them.

For our Shabbat services this week, we went to Kol Haneshema, Jerusalem's largest Reform synagogue. The services there were very nice, and amazingly not much different from services back in the States. Granted, the entire service was in Hebrew, but most of the tunes were familiar and almost all of the prayers I knew. It's good to see that the old camp song is still true: "Wherever you go, there's always someone Jewish..." and that no matter where I am I'll be able to find a service to attend.

Saturday night, we went to Rishon Le Zion and played on the beach. The sand here is very different, and the waters of the Mediterranean felt heavenly on my toes. I picked up a bunch of seashells, so a good number of people might be receiving shell necklaces as presents. Once we got back to the kibbutz, my roomates and I cracked open a pomegranate and had some of the most delicious pomegranate juices and seeds ever. All in all, our second Shabbat in Israel was a great experience.

Yesterday and today we spent on Tiyul (field trips) roaming about the country, walking in the footsteps of our forefathers and learning all about where they came from, why they came, and who these people actually were. Sunday morning was an early wake-up, just in time for us to get to the top of the hills of Sataf to see the mist hanging over the valley. This Arab village sits on an originally Jewish-settled natural spring, and is a prime example of how the land looked centuries ago to the original inhabitants of the Holy Land and even to the figures in the Torah. The farmers have a system of terraces that are used to grow crops, and have developed incredible ways of irrigation. Soon after sitting in the shade in the ruins of a 16th century Byzantian church, we crawled through a small cave to find Sataf's natural water source that allows for vegetation to grow in the middle of the desert. That part of the land hasn't changed in generations, and its beauty is timeless.

From Sataf, we went to Har-Adar to see the Har-El Memorial. This spot sits atop a mountain overlooking all of the Old City of Jerusalem and was a bunker during the 1948 War of Independence, as well as being a memorial to all Israeli soldiers killed in combat. From this vantage point, we could eat our falafel and look out on a 360 degree view of the land. On a good clear day, the Dead Sea is visible to the East, and Tel Aviv can be seen to the West. This was my first glimpse of the controversial Israeli security fence, which runs along the Green Line (post-1967 War) and separates the Israeli towns from the Palestinians. In some places, it is only a 12-ft high chain link fence with patrolling guards, whereas in others the fence is a complex network of trenches and 16-ft high concrete bunker-type walls. Since 2002, when construction of the fence began, there has been a 95% decrease in terrorist attacks and suicide/homocide bombings. Seeing the fence shows how much turmoil this nation still is under, but I don't see that in everyday Israeli life as much as I thought I would.

Last night, we travelled from Har Adar to the Teyellet (Promenade), which is one of--if not the best--view of Jerusalem. From there we saw the sun set and I fully understand why the city is called Jerusalem of Gold. It is absolutely breathtaking. Later, we had free time on Emek Refaim St., where I had my first real Middle Eastern falafel. My mouth waters just thinking of it...

...mmm...falafel...

Pardon me, my thoughts get away from me sometimes. In any case, today was one of the coolest sites yet. We went to the Old City and walked around the City of King David, learning about how the city used to look in biblical times and who lived there, when, etc. There is an archeological dig ongoing at the site of David's Palace, and we had the fortune of meeting the two head archeologists that discovered the city so many years ago. Their names don't readily come to me, but look up City of David and you should find the names. These guys are pretty famous, considering our Jewish history teacher (Josh) almost bowed down to them.

The highlight of the trip today was traversing Hezekiah's Tunnel, an ancient way of getting water to the City of David. An underground spring feeds from a tunnel deep under the town, and we ended up wading through waist-deep water a hundred feet or so underground, exploring the water source firsthand. The tunnel is no more than 4ft wide and 5ft tall in some places, but still carries fresh water from deep underground to the surface. This is what allowed David to establish Jerusalem and have water and means of irrigation, and still feeds the land to this day.

My homework load is still a bit crazy, and Hebrew and I aren't getting along as well as I'd like (thanks for that, Dad---those are your genes!), but all in all, I'm one happy camper. So happy, in fact, that I'm going to go take a nap before my next class. More pictures from the new adventures will be up soon, so check that out, and feel free to e-mail me things to make me smile.

Peace, love, and ancient irrigation!

--Aron
aronaltmark@aol.com

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